Showing posts with label Mumbai-Bombay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mumbai-Bombay. Show all posts

November 16, 2012

Gauri – Ganesh Visarjan, Day 5 Of Ganesh Chaturthi




I position myself roadside, out of the way of crowds streaming toward the lake, the men bearing Ganapati idols, and women, Gauri idols. Men carrying Ganapati outnumber women carrying Gauri. It is day five of Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations.



The police have blocked off the approach to the lake for regular traffic, only letting in rickshaws or tempos bearing devotees carrying Ganapati idols that come to a stop at the entrance to the lake.



Families get off. The head of the family, a male, carries the Ganapati idol resting against his chest before placing the colourful idol on a retaining wall surrounding the lake. Chants of Ganapati Bappa Moraya rend the air.


There, they perform puja and offer prayers before carrying them to a makeshift barricade where bare-feet workers wearing saffron t-shirts with the name of patrons prominently displayed on the back carry the Ganapati idols to a waiting boat fitted with an outboard motor.



In no time the makeshift platform is occupied by Ganapati idols placed by their bearers to be taken out to the boat by local youth. An official, possibly from the fire brigade detachment positioned for rescue operations should any mishap occur, warned the boat-bearers in saffron t-shirts against coming drunk on duty, telling them they can do so once they're done with loading the boats, implying it would hurt religious sentiments of devotees to see their beloved deity handled by drunk bearers.

Yet, one of the bearers smelled heavily of alcohol. It takes all kinds to pull off a festival on the scale Mumbai hosts it.


Once the boat is loaded with Ganapati idols and a few devotees who want to do or see the immersion themselves, it motors out to the middle of the lake.



I watch women in sari walk with large Gauri idols balanced on their head, accompanied by more women, among them their neighbours and relatives.



Ganapati idols outnumber Gauri idols 10 to 1. The sight of women bearing Gauri idols during Ganesh Chaturthi is heartening, indicative of responsibility equated in matters divine. All around me are excited voices. They mingle with invocations to Ganapati, and sounds of cymbals.


Ganesh Chaturthi can be a noisy affair. Vibrant and noisy. Among them the Sonar family who accompanied the deity with much pomp and colour. All eyes turned to the riotous procession drumming their way along.

~

For eleven days Ganesha reigns supreme except day five when he has to share the spotlight with his mother, Gauri as Parvati is popularly known in Maharashtra, and elsewhere.


At the best of times the Mumbai street is crowded, leaving little latitude whatsoever to manoeuvre your way about. 


Come Ganesh Chaturthi, especially the main Ganesh Visarjan (Immersion) days – Day 2, Day 5, and Day 11, the streets leading to lakes, wells and the sea (Girgaum and Juhu) are impassable as traffic shares roads with the loveable deity being borne to the water in a steady stream of families making their way to the numerous immersion locations around the city.



Newspapers publish in advance the routes rearranged by Traffic Police. And I’ve little doubt that it’s one of the most widely read sections. No one fancies being caught up in temporary dead-ends that seem anything but temporary once stuck in it for hours on end.



Drums and occasionally trumpets accompany the rotund elephant-headed deity to his watery abode, families seeing him off with affection. 




Hundreds of Ganesha idols make their way to the water. In the evening all the roads leading to immersion spots turn into a sea of colour. Soon boats ready to carry their esteemed 'passengers' to their resting place, a time of much emotion and sadness.




Those who cannot muster music along for want of people to accompany them or lack instruments, will hire brass bands to do it for them.



On immersion days, the Brass Band will be rolled out with smartly dressed musicians bringing up the procession.

It repeats year after year.  



It’s only on the fifth day that Lord Ganesh is not on his own instead sharing the spotlight with his mother, Gauri, as she accompanies him to the immersion place to be immersed herself.




However, not every Ganapati is accompanied by Gauri, only those who’ve installed Gauri idols in their homes alongside Ganapati will carry them both else Ganesha makes his journey alone even if he shares the cart with Gauri, both emerging from different homes.




Likewise, families who’ve only installed Gauri idols will carry Gauri to the immersion point all by herself. The absence of Gauri idols in Hindu households does not mean she’s not worshipped, she is, since Gauri Puja is an important and integral aspect of Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations, except they’ll use more traditional forms of representing Gauri – small earthen pots my mum said used to be painted over with fighres of Lakshmi, Shanka (shell), Chakra (wheel), Tulsi Vrindavana, and a Cow with a calf.

Now she says, copper vessels are readily available with these signs engraved on it. Some use silver vessels for the same purpose, all so as to avoid the ‘hassle’ of finding an earthen pot in urban centres and possibly the lack of immersion points within easy access.




Men carry Ganapati, and women, Gauri.

Women bearing Gauri idols for immersion on day five of Ganesh Chaturthi is not as common elsewhere as it’s in Maharashtra. While Gauri Puja is a thread that binds Hindu womenfolk across India, carrying Gauri idols for immersion is not as prevalent elsewhere.

~

She further says, ‘Mysore-side, she’s known as swarna Gauri and is installed a day before Ganapati is installed.’

‘Elsewhere in Karnataka, she’s celebrated as Jyesta Gauri, also revered as Lakshmi, and installed on Anuradha Nakshatra which appears on the second day of the commencement of Ganesh Chaturthi, sometimes on the third day.’ Gauri Puja ritual is interesting.

‘Rice is placed in the copper vessel with the five signs, some will use wheat depending upon what’s staple for the region or the household in question.’




‘Once the Puja is done on the third day following Gauri installation, the rice or wheat as the case may be is removed from the vessel before the Mula Nakshatra goes away and is made into payasam or payasa. Unlike rice that can be boiled and made into payasam, the wheat needs to be ground before it’s mixed with milk and made into payasam.

I grew up seeing Gauri Puja performed at home. Unlike Ganapati where the entire family is involved right from the time decorations commence to his immersion, Gauri Puja is primarily driven by the women of the house.

She tells me the thread is placed in the vessel, and as with rice or wheat offerings, it’s removed from the vessel upon deinstallation and worn on the wrist or around the neck until the day before Dussehra when it’s removed and buried in the earth around the Lakshmi pole.

‘In some regions, women remove the thread on the full moon (Purnima) after Dussehra. An alternative is to cast it in the river to avoid it channelled out along with garbage.’

In older days she remembers seeing Brahmins going house to house, Brahmin homes, selling thread made from cotton. ‘Thread offered up to Gauri during Gauri Puja would be made of 16 strands. A second 16-strand thread, or a third depending upon the number of married women in the family, would be similarly offered during puja to be worn by the women either around the neck or on the wrist once the puja was done and Gauri de-installed.

The thread is made wet, applied with haldi (turmeric) and Kum Kum (vermillion) and placed in the vessel for the duration Gauri remains installed. In instances where married relatives elsewhere are unable to perform Gauri Puja then a 16-strand thread would be dutifully placed for consecration on their behalf and mailed by envelope to their address.’

I distinctly remember this as I would carry the envelope with its distinct haldi strains to the post office and mail it out. Other times the postman would bear an envelope home and opening it Mum would extract the thread.

Seeing haldi now evokes many different memories and times.


August 10, 2012

Bal Krishna On Gokulashtami



Mumbai, 2012


A boy dressed up as Bal Krishna looks on as visitors crowd available balconies in old buildings on Ranade Road, Dadar, for a glimpse of Govindas girding up to battle rival groups for a crack at the Dahi Handi on Krishna Janmashtami today.


May 28, 2012

Project Cinema City At NGMA, Mumbai



  
Bombay has grime, grit, spit, shit, and runs to the writ of the Marathi Manoos brigade. And at one time the city had the Brit lording over. The Brit is gone, but chose not to take the grime, grit, spit, and shit along to some museum in the isle to display alongside what many say are loot gathered in the time it took to ensure the Sun never sets on the British Empire.

But it’s another matter, a story for another time that someone, and it’s said it was a Sri Lankan, responded with, “That's because God does not trust the British in the dark.”




But on the Saturday before last there was light, there was dark even if in unequal measure, and a museum to display them both, a museum I rarely tire of visiting irrespective of whether the art on display enthuses me or not. 



In these two shades that’re central to the cinema Bombay produced, until now that is, artists, people I no longer know how to distinguish outside of their ‘work’ expect from their stereotypes, came together to create Project Cinema City in the National Gallery Of Modern Art, or NGMA, the acronym it’s better known by.

Bombay as Cinema City is a cliché even though it being a cliché does not constrain or limit the artist determined to find a ‘new’ way to express the city’s association with cinema, Indian cinema.

Bombay is about Hindi Cinema. Hindi is Indian Cinema if visibility is the factor to consider. So Bombay is Indian Cinema. I can sense a few faces cringe at my attempt to equate A with C just because A = B, and B = C. It’s too simplistic.

But then, at its best Hindi Cinema has been about A = C in its plots where the protagonist is rarely the cause and reason for the ending, instead the city, i.e. Bombay, its character, its characterisation as a metaphor for life’s struggles, it’s own genesis drawn as a parallel for rags to riches stories, holding up its capacity to level playing fields as backdrop to create drama and play it out in a mix of sentimentality, morality, viciousness, sacrifice is often the catalyst for moral and ethical dilemmas the script confronts the characters with before turning into a plot deconstructed in steps by twists and turns.




If you were looking to see the twists and turns articulated in the air conditioned environs of the NGMA, expecting each floor you ascended to reveal the next level of drama as opposed to a mere turn, before turning into a full fledged climax, you would be in for a disappointment.




Instead what the artists put together at the NGMA on the saturday before last, and it should not come as a surprise because among NGMA’s stated aims is to function as “a repository of the cultural ethos of the country and showcase the changing art forms through the passage of the last hundred and fifty years starting from about 1857 in the field of Visual and Plastic arts.”




And Project Cinema City: Research Art & Documentary Practices, a Majilis initiative with KRVIA in collaboration with NGMA and the Ministry Of Culture, Govt. Of India, is described as a set of enquiries into the labour, imagination, desire, access, spaces, locations, iconisation, materiality, languages, migrant peoples, viewing conventions, and hidden processes that create the cinemas the city makes, and also the cities its cinema produces. The enquiries are then processed into productions of text, film, art, cartography. The multi-disciplinary research work, produced output and all the residuals together form a cinema city archive that is transient and open-ended – to facilitate further readings, more works.

Elaborating further in the context of the city, Bombay/Mumbai, it reads

This show, a part of Project Cinema City, focuses on the cinema of the city of Bombay/Mumbai: its production processes and ancillary cultures; its stations of reception and recognition that run through a complex set of networks; the bazaars and streets of the city that hawk the footprints of cinema; and the city-zens’ memory of the contemporary that revolves around cinema.

The problem I find with creative descriptions is it engenders a certain sensory expectation from the viewer compatible with their own take on cinema that derives its metaphors and more from the city (Bombay) they negotiate on a daily basis; in order to survive, continually adapting to its very vicissitudes the city’s cinema includes as elements in its telling of stories.

A city resident, in part, lives the portrayal of the city in its cinema.

Juxtaposed with their own impressions of cinema through the years, the reading of the description Project Cinema City put out will have constructed a very different expectation of presentation to the one they eventually got to see at the NGMA yesterday. Not that any of it was entirely off the mark, far from it it forced the viewer to make associations with their own residual remembrances of city’s character that’s changed from the one the city’s cinema painted over the years.

And 100 years of Indian Cinema as this project seeks to commemorate is too wide a timeline to capture metaphorically. To compound it, the use of visual imagery as a driver to cement portrayals of the city of Mumbai and the cinema it engendered meant there’s gaps to fill where the city’s landscape has changed, where its excesses have changed direction, where its ethos has shown a marked change with the going of its original keepers.

It’s in these gaps in remembrances the viewer, at least those like yours truly, expected Project Cinema City to step in and fill it for them.




They tried but more as a construction of elements abstracted at sensory levels the viewer steps around and off the street on their way about Mumbai. The installations were not the metaphors they could be but were instead representations in another form. It was here the viewer was challenged, irrespective of whether it was a good thing in this context, into relating to the exhibits. It was an interesting way to represent to say the least. Creative, certainly.




This was evident on the third floor, Phantasmagoria aka Chamatkar, where Anant Joshi’s settlement of moving wooden objects, painted with industrial paint and radium stickers sought to replicate the imagination of the city of dizzying speed and escalating desire in an installation of moving wooden objects that are shaped in the form of firecrackers and painted/printed in the idiom of matchbox labels.



The objects also resemble threaded spindles, the base for production in the textile industry – the erstwhile nerve centre of the city. The high speed of movement makes the objects ephemeral and yet desirable, much like matinee idols who are often referred to as patakas – firecrackers.    

The objects spun at high speeds drawing passing attention though not quite communicating their intent, at least not in the way Bombayites see their spinning city. They could identify with the speed even if not with the spindle.



Desire, when spun, turns into a blur. Its shades merge, shedding nuances, and acquiring invisibility. In this city of Mumbai, invisibility is a state of being.

If you’re about Mumbai and wish to see life twirling madly before being whisked away, you only need to step into the nearest suburban railway station at rush hour.

It’s on those platforms that the spinning objects of Anant Joshi’s creation would find their closest context, a realistic scenario, one that’s easily identifiable, and more importantly, relatable.

While the artists at the NGMA sought to gather Mumbai suburban railway stations into the ambit of their vision for Cinema City, they did it differently.




Instead of associating with the installation of painted spinning objects on third floor that simultaneously sought to project a city of dizzying speed and threaded spindles of erstwhile city mills, its workers travelling to and fro from shifts by suburban train lines, the paintings of Fourteen Stations by Atul Dodiya, rendered in oil, acrylic with marble dust and crackle medium on canvas and displayed on the second floor of the NGMA gallery, depicted suburban railway station signboards painted with portraits of popular Bollywood villains!

I struggled to make the connection in light of the connection that could’ve been made.

By itself, Atul Dodiya’s depiction juxtaposing a Bollywood villain with station signboards on the Central Line was an association too tenuous to make sense in the context of the expectation Project Cinema City generated with respect to the city’s lifeline (suburban rail network) integrated into many a memorable Bollywood plot.




Mumbai’s railway stations have figured in high drama ranging from chases, escapes, romances, and runaways to captures, and happy endings, all in the thronging milieu of the spinning objects.

It was time to move on to other exhibits. The Calendar Project on the ground floor and continued on the first floor.      



Even before K and I stepped into the NGMA on its opening night of Project Cinema City, it was the Calendar Project I was looking forward to. Space reserved in the spacious ground floor setting, intriguingly designated Gallery Temporal, hosted portions of the Calendar Project alongside Table Of Miscellany and Bioscope.  



It doesn’t take much persuasion to become a fan of bollywood posters of yore and no show on Indian Cinema is deemed complete without those posters that’ve gone on to acquire iconic status though it must be said while I expected Bollywood to figure in the calendars on display, reminiscent of old Bollywood posters, the displays turned out to be different.




I had expected a re-run of the below imagery from Bacchan's time, old hindi film posters that etched the grit, the grime, the intensity in strokes of colour driven by an unseen hand, the artist a mere intermediary unleashing the complex reality the script sought to project.


No one who saw those posters outside cinema halls in the years gone by could realistically resist queuing up at the ticket counters. In those posters is an era gone by that compulsively draws people into wanting to experience it yet again, one more time.




I was no different. Except the calendars on display, retro all the same, displayed iconography (as is the fancy categorisation given by those who only make sense of things if slotted in mechanical contexts) and had little or no relation to the posters I thought I’d be seeing displayed.




Calendars displayed on the walls drew attention of a disproportionate number of visitors. Everyone grew up with them back then. Now, almost no one does. The pamphlet note The Calendar Project thus:




A collaborative project to re-negotiate the process of iconization of contemporary images in the public domain through the 20th century. The works are mostly based on found images or on earlier works of the artists themselves, which are then hybridized with contemporary readings and speculations on the public and the popular.



The inconspicuous-looking individual works gain temporality and attain a special kind of exuberance when collated and placed together.




Then there was the Bioscope.









Created by Kausik Mukhopadhay with Amruta Sakalkar, the Bioscope was projected as A game of Cinema – City – Modernity Timeline, and described as below:




Snippets of information, gossip, lore and tales swivel around the cityscape and images of urban icons. The game is to create a tangible narrative by arranging appropriate series of data through an interactive device.

I stepped up to each of its six view ports and partook of the city in its imagery.




Adjacent to the Bioscope, on the Table Of Miscellany, a Collaborative compilation of photographs, texts, maps installed by Shikha Pandey and Paroma Sadhana, vied for attention of visitors drawn moth-like to the calendars displayed on the wall across the floor.




But those who did stop by the Table of Miscellany attempted to absorb the assertion of the artists thus: Books that are not written, magazines that are fossilized, maps that are constantly being altered, texts that are fluid, photos that capture the ephemeral – all collated within a structure that is a library-cum-laboratory look-alike. The monochromatic formality of the structure and the fleeting characteristics of the objects represent the inherent frictions in the proclamation of archiving the contemporary.



Men, and women in frocks and skirts sat at the Table of Miscellany, elbows resting on the table-top, sifting through the miscellany.



Of the First Floor exhibits, collectively titled with the intriguing WWW@FF, the series Return of the Phantom Lady or Sinful City, a Photo-Romance by the artist Pushpamala narrated the second adventure of the Phantom Lady or Kismet (1996-98), a black-and-white thriller shot in the film noir style.




This time the Phantom Lady gets caught in a dark web of murder, intrigue and foul play in contemporary Mumbai. While rescuing an orphaned schoolgirl, she encounters the land mafia and their land-grab operations that unfold through the sites.




While there were no known faces to fit into frames on display, each frame capturing a key moment in a Bollywood plot, it was the setting and the farce encountered in the exaggerated imagery that drove home the recurring theme in Bollywood dramas, among the ones set in the Cinema City – Mumbai.

The context of a land-grab in the Phantom Lady sequence was eminently relatable by many struggling to hold on to their piece of land (in the sky or otherwise) in Mumbai.     

Visitors flocked in the open spaces fronting exhibits, talking, catching up. Soon NGMA galleries from ground up, through its floors – first, second, third, and the Dome, turned into an occasion for a quick tête-à-tête.



Dressed for the evening, attire ranging from the casual ‘take-it-or-leave-it-this-is-me’ to formals, it was time to renew associations, catch up from where some had left off the evening before at another place at another occasion, the crowd, prominently South Mumbai or so it seemed had responded in sufficient numbers to the call of the Cinema City.



Staircases hummed to life, in contrast to the quiet from earlier shows at the NGMA I’ve made my way to over the years. It was a welcome change. And this is how Mumbai should respond to its artists I thought. But no two occasions engender their representation in art equally, and no two artists are equally endowed with creativity people can relate to.   




Among faces that floated around from exhibit to exhibit, many seemed familiar.  Had I seen them on Page 3 supplements? I wasn’t sure. Had I seen them on T.V.? Maybe. Had I seen them in T.V. Serials? Probably.

Of Sushmita Mukherjee, the loquacious Kitty of the 1980s T.V. show Karamchand, I was certain of. I passed her on my way down from the Dome.

Clad in a saree and clutching a purse she waited on the landing for visitors to file down before taking the stairs up to the Dome where Museum Shop of Fetish Objects (drawings and sculptures by Shreyas Karle), The Western Suburb (Video installation on Sweatshops of Cinema with 13 monitors and a projection on acrylic sheets), Of Panorama: A Riding Exercise (Video animation and interactive installation), and Cinema City Lived (Map  of the city made of a network of PVC pipes with graphics, models, objects and moving images.



The 360 degree view of the Dome is among my favourite galleries in the NGMA. It’s impossible for any art displayed in the Dome to slip up.



Under the aegis of How Films Are Prepared: Remembering Phalke, the Dome, among other exhibits, had on display The Museum Shop of Fetish Objects - A speculative museum of cinema at the time of post-cinema.       



On display were various fetishes foregrounded by Bollywood – the human anatomy, garments, props, home décor, spoken words – are made into sculptural objects cast in brass, copper and aluminium. These objects, along with sketches, scribbles, diaries and found images are displayed in a museum-like setting.




And who can forget the bandook of Bollywood, two-fingered or single-fingered, the iconic symbol that dispatches karma to do its dharma in Bollywood plots is best remembered by Hands’ Up.




You are Under Arrest is peripheral given that few arrests if any take place until the climax is well and truly done if not underway. That’s the reality a cine goer will tell you, adding for your benefit, “Even in real life, as opposed to reel life, cops arrive on the scene after all is over.”

The label read: This simple movement of both the palms establishes a deep relation between Mumbai’s goons and Cinema. The object underlines the power of mundane actions establishing their universality as a constant ‘k’. The k, or the constant here is the city’s viewer who has been witness to the on screen and off screen/drama. Made in brass the object carries an external natural shine, which glorifies the two occupations mentioned above.








And the Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Isahi needs no further enumeration, certainly not in the context of Bollwood themes.



I wonder if Amar, Akbar, Anthony will be remade into Amar, Akbar, Arvinder, Anthony. Anything is possible in these days of script drought in Bollywood. Moreover it might not be a bad idea after all.




Across from the ‘museum’ exhibits was Cinema City Lived (Map of the city made from a network of PVC pipes with graphics, models, objects and moving images).

Conceptualised by Rohan Shivkumar and Apurva Parikh, with structure and objects constructed by Apurva Talpade, Elizabeth Mathew and Shivani Shedde, with Waterfront Image provided by Apoorva Iyengar and Chetan Kulkarni, the description of the installation (in darkness) read:

A compilation of the marks of cinema on the body of the city. The pipeline network is conceived as the stitching pattern that holds the map of the cinema city together – tracing production units, shooting studios, exhibition theatres, locations of desires and utility and their interfaces.




At regular intervals, the viewing ports carved in the PVC pipes glowed, drawing curious visitors into stepping gingerly among pipes laid out for a dekho.




If the artists actually managed to locate the viewing ports (and the exhibits viewed through them) at their exact locations on the map of Mumbai city as represented by the network of PVC pipes then I’ve no qualms in clapping my approval for their creative representation.

My only concern was if visitors, after having negotiated successive floors of exhibits, would’ve tired of the theme to retain their enthusiasm until the moment they ascended the stairs to emerge as if from a trap door on the best stage of all, the Dome.

I hoped they could for, if as I said earlier, the network of PVC pipes with its view ports glowing with elements central, and integral, to producing a Bollywood film in Mumbai, were accurately represented by location of the PVC map, the installation deserved applause.




Curious visitors stepped gingerly among the glowing pipes the same colour as the setting, dark, before bending down or stretching up as the requirement be to peer into the viewing port for a glimpse of the marks of cinema on the body of the city, the same ‘body’ each visitor to the Project Cinema City at the NGMA negotiated to visit the exhibition, the same ‘body’ they continue to negotiate on a daily basis to survive the city, their circumstances, sometimes ending up in darkened theatres to escape all of it for the three hours or thereabouts.   

The refreshments hosted on the small terrace was crowded out by visitors stepping through the exit for a quick bite before sauntering back to continue with their exertions from floor to floor. Among other offerings I was surprised to find Appam figuring in the menu.




The night outside the NGMA Gallery hummed to life while the distinctive building itself glowed ethereally.

Note: Project Cinema City was in commemoration of 100 years of Indian Cinema.


Related Links

1. Project Cinema City (Mumbai)