December 03, 2011

Conversations, And Backdrops in Jodhpur



Walking down Jodhpur’s M. G. H Road in the heat of the September Sun, a middle-aged man broke his stride upon receiving a call on his phone.

It soon became apparent that it was not a call to be answered hurriedly, and certainly not one to carry on with while dodging passers-by on the street. The call called for a more pleasant setting, some shade, and a place to recline and answer in leisure, making me wonder who was on the other line.

There was little chance I would ever find out but it didn’t stop me from wondering about likely possibilities, and they certainly weren’t mundane possibilities. Wandering does that to imagination.

Looking around for a place more appropriate to the occasion, the man soon found respite from the searing Sun on the steps of an old stone building, leaning against a stone pillar as he stretched himself out on the steps.



Rust had eaten away the letters on the metal nameplate that I had initially mistaken for wood. However, adjacent to the nameplate, letters stenciled in black ink on the wooden door survived to indicate the nature of the establishment: Bharat Tent House.

I cannot remember clearly if Bharat Tent House was housed in the Sanghi Das building, or if it was in an adjacent building. It shared the open area in the front with other commercial properties, including a TV Repair shop.

By now the man was deep in conversation, occasionally smiling as he threw his head back against the floral designs carved in the stone pillar and looked around absently, his mobile phone held firmly to his ear. It was inevitable I would linger around, eyes trailing along the contours of his backdrop, pausing every inch of the way along the façade etched with decorative patterns on pilasters projecting from the wall, lending the door on either side ample relief.

The pilasters ended in fine stone corbels on which rested the entablature projecting from the wall, over the fading blue door. I couldn’t tell for sure if the carved corbels projecting from the wall were merely decorative elements or actually bore the load of the entablature over the door.

The weather beaten door was locked, its blue reminding of the sky in a city that sits at the gatepost of the Thar desert. It was a magical moment, a Jodhpur moment, no less.

And I wondered again, this time around not of who might be on the other line but if his conversation was as interesting as his backdrop.

24 comments:

  1. What a lovely doorway! Why do we love these old and weathered and worn places, at least to photograph? We, in the western world anyway, are so quick to tear down or abandon the old. We don't want to live in run down places, yet pictures of falling barns and farms are very popular. And of course, we are fascinated by ancient ruins everywhere in the world. Is it the history of the past that calls to us?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Great pic and story - that is such a neat contrast of old and modern.

    ReplyDelete
  3. The pictures tell a story for anyone who studies them and wishes to create one. I like your version of what you see there. Nice post! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Splendid photos and writing about the man in conversation by the door that looks like the sky. Thank you for this.

    ReplyDelete
  5. You always find the stories within the stories, Anil. And I love how history and the present keep great company together in your neat shots!

    ReplyDelete
  6. what a lovely story! and a great setting too!! I am always amazed at the everyday things u notice and write up so beautifully!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Leaning in anticipation
    out of the
    jharoka,
    eyes searching
    through her
    earthy red-yellow veil ,
    she calls out
    to her friend
    passing by;
    rushes down the steps,
    out through
    the big door,
    stops at the threshold,
    a huge smile
    matched
    with an outpouring of words.

    A few more windows
    have folks looking down
    to see what
    the commotion is all about.
    Some indulgent,
    some smirking,
    and disapproving
    this wild display....

    They should have lived
    in a time,
    where
    you never saw
    who you were talking to,
    the person
    never noticed your delight....

    AS
    you sat down
    at the base of it all,
    leaned back,
    they heard
    a one sided conversation
    devoid of
    all the action.

    No wonder
    the doors and windows
    prefer
    to close their
    eyes and minds....

    ReplyDelete
  8. Anil,
    You may have carved this yesterday but it is a pretty sculpture in antiquity.
    Magan

    ReplyDelete
  9. Such an old world charm in the photographs :) and your writing too :)

    ReplyDelete
  10. Marja-leena: There's a certain artistry to designs of the old, a certain verve, imagination, and classical element to it.

    And in their weathered state they display a certain ruggedness as well. All of which are usually lacking in the functional design of modern times where efficiency and economy trumps art. No wonder the modern rarely holds beauty that's cherished.

    While the modern might last, the design of the old will likely not only last but inspire awe.

    Riot Kitty: Thak you. Yes, it's a contrast.

    Daisy: Thank you. Like you rightly said, it's open to a more than one interpretation.

    Am: Thank you.

    Talon: Thank you. A pleasure to learn you liked the pictures.

    Anu: Thank you. You could blame it on my meandering and rarely ever being in a hurry to get anywhere :-)

    Ugich Konitari: Lovey poem. Imagine what it'd be like to not have Jharoka's to keep an eye on the street and the goings on.

    Windows that overlook the street retain the oxygen that pumps into the street and beyond.

    Magan: And how well the decorative features liven up Rajasthan streets. I hope the practice continues.

    BluntB: Thank you. A pleasure to be told so :-)

    ReplyDelete
  11. lovely post ......feeling nostalgic while the memories of my home is village surround me.....loved the feel dissolved.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Beautiful door and an enjoyable script.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Magic Eye: Thank you.

    G Conscience: Thank you.

    Niranjan Das: Thank you.

    A: Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Nice pics of the old Jodhpur charm. Wonder how much longer these will remain intact before they are torn down and replaced by modern monstrosities in concrete.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Visited Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur a while ago. I was amazed at how Jaipur was painted pink and Jodhpur was more of a bluer city. Don't know why but as explained to us blue was available more easily or held a natural element wrt the skies or something along the lines.

    The blue door is very striking.

    ReplyDelete
  16. That was a wonderful story from a part of the world I might never "see". Thank you Anil P and bring us more from around Jodhpur.

    You sure have me wonder too about his conversation... I can say from the look on his face that it is someone he cherishes.

    ReplyDelete
  17. The door is interesting in the sense of its age contreasts with the man and his modern cell phone. Blue is a good color.

    ReplyDelete
  18. R Ramakrishnan: Thank you. For an architecture style to survive, its worth needs to be understood by policymakers governing housing.

    If every place looks the same as any other, there's little to look forward to in planning trips to Rajasthan or whereever else.

    Red: Each is charming in its own way. From what I learnt as to why houses are painted blue in Jodhpur, was Jodhpur's Brahmin community chose to paint their houses blue, rather indigo colour. I'm not sure of the reason. One theory says, blue carries after the colour of Vishnu.

    Apparently, other communities too have adopted the colour after the Brahmins started it.

    NRI Girl: Thank you. Jodhpur is a fine place to visit.

    Amber Star: Yes, blue is a great colour, the colour of the sky.

    ReplyDelete
  19. a door and a man talking ...just three words and you pen a lovely story..will surely ask my students to read this one..and gather how to pen down thoughts.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Anan: A man and a Door talking, listening - both :-)

    ReplyDelete
  21. Great photograph and the thoughts you weaved around it. Old cities, old charms remain, however high their brush with technology is.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Ambika: Thank you. The charm is a distinguishing factor between then and now.

    ReplyDelete

Your comments are much appreciated and I'd love to hear from you. Thank you.