In 2012 my friend, Philip, and I left
for Uttaranchal to see tigers and more, making Mohan our base from which to explore the Corbett National Park. It turned out to be an
unforgettable trip, not least because of the tigers. Some memories remained,
some did not. Yet others refused to leave us even after we did.
In a series of posts loosely connecting
events, experiences and observations posted in no particular order, I hope to
record our journey through Corbett Country and beyond from what I remember or
noted from that year travelling through Uttaranchal on a whim and a fancy.
~
The milestone read: Mohan 0.
The road from Ramnagar had wound
along hills keeping us company from the time we had hefted our bags into the
sturdy Mahindra that Govind had eventually managed to wrestle to the Ramnagar
railway station, two hours after the train had deposited us one early May
morning in the state of Uttaranchal or Uttarakhand as it's also known.
~
The overnight journey from New Delhi was uneventful
except for the anticipation that had gripped us both, Philip and I, on what was
my maiden journey, and Philip’s second, to erstwhile Corbett country.
I had lain awake in the night
unable to sleep, recalling episodes from Jim Corbett’s Man-Eaters of Kumaon, fuelling my fevered imagination further when
we passed Moradabad
at half past three in the morning. Then Aliganj, and Kashipur followed.
Ramnagar was next.
The night before, I had arranged
with Manoj, the manager of a hotel in Mohan, or resort as they’re commonly
advertised, to have a vehicle meet us at the station to bring us to Mohan,
confirming our departure from New
Delhi, and messaging him as we approached Ramnagar.
“I’d have to find somebody that
early to send to the railway station,” Manoj had said in a tone that vacillated
to say the least, sowing doubts if he could muster someone at four in the
morning to have him present at Ramnagar by five when the Ranikhet Express was
expected to arrive.
“It’s fine if you can send
someone out a little later, we can wait on the platform for some time,” I had
assured him, “But not later than 5:45 am, surely not beyond 6:00 am.”
Manoj had sounded far away over
the crackling line, querulous in snatches as if buffeted by storms wreaking
havoc in a remote valley in the middle of nowhere.
It was enough to nudge me
into imagining his outfit to be encircled by hills with ridges crested by tall
Sal trees the sun had to fight to break through, ridges the tigers roamed in
the night except I didn’t know just then how popular the Corbett National Park
had become with visitors out of Delhi, and how populated the stretches ringing
the Tiger Reserve.
Adding to disturbance on the line
was the unrelenting noise on the platform at Old Delhi railway station as we
awaited the Ranikhet Express the night before. Toshi had left us both at a back
entrance to the station before disappearing into the Delhi night.
In the faint light of mercury
lamps we had negotiated the crowds on the platform before taking the stairs up
and descending into the cauldron of platform 12. We might just as well have
descended into a sea of refugees awaiting the last train home and not known the
difference, such was the mass of humanity and clamour that greeted us on the
platform. Shipments of goods awaiting delivery at stations along the way
crowded it further.
“Yes, he will be there at the
Ramnagar station to bring you back to Mohan,” Manoj had confirmed.
At first Philip and I had debated
our options for our stay, most notably Dhikuli, before settling on Mohan, both
located along the boundary of the Corbett
National Park and
separated by 14 kms.
“Dhikuli is no good,” Philip had
opined in the days before the trip as we weighed options, debating locations in
the vicinity of the Corbett Tiger Reserve that’d give us the best shot at
covering the terrain in and around the Tiger Reserve at short notice.
“Dhikuli’s too crowded with
hotels for long stretches. Mohan is better,” Philip insisted with an eye on
birdwatching in the vicinity of our stay. So Mohan it was.
I only hoped Mohan was not so far
away that we’d find it difficult to travel to entry points to the Corbett National Park, most notably the Amdanda
Gate near Ramnagar that opened access to the Bijrani zone.
Bijrani is where the tiger is,
everyone who knew anything about Corbett had said online in the days before we left
on our journey.
~
Ranikhet Express rolled into
Ramnagar a few minutes past five in the morning. We barely felt the 239-odd kms
it had covered through the night from Delhi.
Moufossil stations had passed by
quietly in the night, no more than insignificant shadows in a crowd of
strangers strung along north India.
After a quick sip of chai at a
stall selling chips and biscuits among other packaged snacks, passengers had
filed out of Ramnagar Station to waiting rickshaws or transport arranged by
hotels they had booked for their stay.
As far as I could tell, the only
reason why tourists came to Ramnagar was Corbett National Park.
Once Corbett National Park
was ticked, some would continue to Ranikhet or Nainital or both. There were
other places but none as compelling as the lure of tigers.
By quarter past five the dawn had
broken and the quiet unique to very early mornings had settled on the platform
as I stepped off the train, wide eyed.
5:45 am turned to 6, still no
sign of the jeep Manoj had promised.
Auto-rickshaws crowding the
station entrance in time for the arrival of Ranikhet Express had competed
vigorously for tourists and locals alike before departing with their passengers
to the Ramnagar bus stand and beyond, to hotels in Dhikuli.
For ten rupees one
could hitch a ride to the bus stand that connected Ramnagar to other destinations
in Nainital district.
A lone SBI ATM expressly provided
for the convenience of tourists to the Corbett National Park
stood at the exit, empty. Mosquitoes droned about the machine.
“The driver is coming,” Manoj
reassured me when I rung him up again to check on the promised transport; I
doubted if the tiger would prove as elusive. “Wait at the station,” Manoj
repeated. “He is on the way.”
“We’re waiting at the station
only,” I replied, barely disguising my disappointment at the delay. We’d hoped
to use the early morning for a foray in the forests about Mohan. It would’ve to
be scrapped.
The station was empty save one
rickshaw who hoped to convince us yet to ditch the hotel transport and hop
behind for a ride.
“If everyone waits for the hotel
transport what’s to become of us,” the rickshawallah entreated. “They (the
hotels) take away our business,” he added.
Dogs eyed our bags as we stood
outside for signs of Govind. We eyed the dogs in turn.
Equilibrium established, I turned
my attention to morning activity outside the station. Milkmen and roosters were
up and about. And so were children starting their school day.
Consignments (labelled RMR, code
for Ramnagar) offloaded from arriving trains had been carried out and loaded
onto Goods Carriers improvised from Vijeta scooters for dispatch to
destinations around the small town.
I had seen similar improvisations
(Jugaad) carried out with Enfield
Bullet 350 cc in Rajasthan to ferry people but none using Vijeta scooters until
now.
Actually I couldn’t quite
remember the last time I saw a Vijeta on the road let alone one modified into a transport carrier.
“Bas paanch minute mein pahoochta hoon, Saar,” Govind, the driver
dispatched by Manoj, said each time I checked on his progress after each “paanch minute” had turned fifteen.
Govind eventually turned up at
quarter past seven, a full two hours after alighting from Ranikhet Express at
Ramnagar. I heard him before he made the turn in the road that straightened on
its approach to the railway station, and in the days ahead I would grow
accustomed to the roar of the Mahindra, enough to alert the wildlife we hoped
to see stealthily.
Thin to the point of being
skeletal, Govind was built small and sported a ready smile, his pearly white
teeth set off by dark skin.
In time we would warm up to his effusive
personality, entertained by his stories about Corbett tigers and their hoary
exploits from the moment he turned the jeep in the direction of Mohan. Throwing
the gear forward was an effort to his wiry hands and he would bring his
shoulder to bear in affecting the change of gear.
Mohan, or Mohaan as locals
pronounce the name (Govind certainly favoured Mohaan) lay 21 kms. north of Ramnagar, the drive along the eastern
boundary of the Corbett
National Park barely
deviating from the course Kosi etched in the mountainous terrain.
Soon we would leave Ramnagar
behind as we made for Mohan along the Kosi.
~
Ramnagar.
I rolled it off my tongue slowly,
seeking in its sound the beginnings of a story from the 1930s.
It was in Ramnagar in the month
of May over eighty years ago that Jim Corbett alighted from the 1 p.m. train
before setting off on a twenty-four-mile foot journey to Kartkanoula, halting
at Gargia for the night before making for Mohan village on foot the next
morning.
Mohan Bazaar
After a brief halt at the Mohan
forest rest house, soon after meeting with locals from Mohan bazaar who, as he
notes in his celebrated book, The
Man-Eaters of Kumaon, filled him in on stories of the man-eater terrorising
Mohan, Jim Corbett left Mohan for Kartkanoula, a ‘four-thousand-foot’ climb
with his entourage of two servants and six Garhwalis, where the man-eater that
came to be known as The Mohan Man-eater,
had killed three villagers in the week before Corbett’s arrival.
By circumstance or by
coincidence, our choice of stay, Mohan, while in no way influenced by the fact
that it figured as the setting of The
Mohan Man-Eater back in the 1930s, had risen in notoriety as recently as a
little over a year ago after a tiger from the Corbett National Park turned
man-eater and preyed on villagers in the forest hamlets adjoining Mohan, namely
Gargia and Sunderkhal, the latter an illegal encroachment of settlers and a
determining factor in the rise of man-animal conflict in this part of the
country, and the former, home to a temple dedicated to Gargia Devi as Goddess
Parvati is known here.
Located a little over 14 kms.
from Ramnagar, the Gargia Devi temple is perched on a massive rock rising from
the Kosi. Over the duration of our stay we could pass by it along the road
connecting Ramnagar with Mohan.
“On Karthik Poornima, the temple
fair is worth coming to see. People come from far and wide offer prayers at the
temple,” Govind interjected the silence. We had pulled over to the side of the
road up an incline while I photographed the Kosi river and the temple in the
distance.
The river ran dry in some parts
along this stretch save a few areas where water had collected in inviting
pools, projecting an appearance of studied calm while contrasting starkly with
dry areas strewn with stones bleached white.
Standing on the edge of the hill
where it dropped away sharply to the Kosi below, I sought breaks in canopies of
trees growing on the slopes and photographed devotees enjoying a dip in spots
where the river had pooled its scarce resources for the summer.
It was a happy bunch, white teeth
and all. The calm was a far cry from the swollen beast of 2010 that had swept
away all it could reach, trees, animals, people, homes, hopes, everything.
The Kosi floods of 2010, whose then
water level can be seen marked prominently on the retaining wall of the Kosi
Barrage upstream of the river at Ramnagar where visitors cross over to the
Ramnagar Forest Division enroute to Sitavani to the forests extending from the
western banks of the mighty river, has entered the local lexicon as a permanent
reference.
Talking to Kundan in Mohan Bazaar
one evening after we had settled in our new temporary ‘home’ in Mohan I didn’t
at first catch on to his reference to 2010 in “Dus mein tho sangatan waley bahut dey gaye”, “Dus mein tho aisey aisey cheezey di gayi ki … logon ney … kapda-shapda,
kambal-shambal, duniya bhar ke cheezey … par hissaa nahi diya kissi nay.”
“Dus mein” (Do Hazar Dus –
2010) has come to attain a significance formerly restricted to events such as
births and deaths in a human lifetime. At least that was the sense I got from
talking to people there.
Along the Kosi past Ramnagar, the
Kosi floods of 2010 divide the timeline of life into a before and an after, strengthened no doubt by the resentment among the displaced who view their
plight as unresolved to this day, atleast according to Kundan.
The story is no different along
the stretch on either side of Gargia, a stretch on the faultlines of
human-animal conflict since the days of Jim Corbett, considerably worsening
ever since.
Like always there was more that
meets the eye than what our own expectation had led us to believe.
This was promising to be more
than just about tigers, just how I would've wanted it.
Note: The series will continue in fits and starts, and in no particular
order of occurrence.