September 25, 2024

Sweeper Baba

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Jal Mahal, Jaipur

Jaipur’s Man Sagar lake, constructed in 1610 by the Rajput ruler Raja Man Singh, is ringed by low lying hills to the east.

Visitors to the lake hang out on the road-side promenade; some of them will sit on the steps and take in the majestic Jal Mahal palace that rises from the lake; the red sandstone structure stands in stark relief against the hills. Others will toss flour balls into the water to feed the fish, watched by fellow visitors, gazing into the still waters temporarily roiled by thrashing fish getting at the flour-balls. Calm returns as abruptly as the violence had set in.

A woman vendor selling flour-balls on the steps noticed me looking at an old man, unkempt, face hidden under a hood, sweeping the steps end-to-end. Nothing about him indicated any formal employment with any official body.

Sensing me wondering about him, she said.

“Baba has been here a long time and has taken upon himself to keep the steps clean. He sweeps them all. Sometimes people offer him money. He never asks.”

I nodded in her direction. The afternoon sun lit up her sari. She was heavyset and had the easy face of one at peace with herself, smiling and engaging with children living out their days on the steps.

I hung around doing nothing, watching people watching other people. The sun dipped. It was time to return.

Digging into my pocket I offered the Sweeper Baba some money. He took it and returned to sweeping the steps.

Purpose is life.